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ist information bureau, Tourism Assistance Force (police), a cloakroom for left luggage (10 per bag per 24 hours), retiring rooms (s/d 225/450, with air-con from 750), restaurants and air-conditioned waiting rooms for those with 1st class and 2AC train tickets.
Nine daily trains go to Delhi (1am, 2.
50am, 4.
40am, 5am, 6am, 8.
45am, 4.
30pm, 5.
50pm and 11.
15pm), plus others on selected days.
The 6am double-decker does the trip in 4? hours, others take five to six.
Three daily trains leave for Agra (6.
15am, 3pm and 5.
10pm), taking 4? hours.
Second-class seats cost 82.
Three go to Bikaner (3pm, 9.
15pm and 12.
50am), taking six, seven and eight hours respectively.
Sleeper tickets cost 200 to 240.
Four go to Jodhpur (11.
35am, 5pm, 11.
45pm and 12.
15am), taking five to six hours.
Three go to Udaipur (6.
45am, 2pm and 10.
30pm), in seven to eight hours.
Four go to Ahmedabad (4.
25am, 9am, 8.
35pm and 12.
The 12.
35am is quickest (9 hours), others take 11 to 13 hours.
Sleepers cost around 250.
For Pushkar , 11 daily trains make the two-hour trip to Ajmer, plus many more on selected days so you rarely wait more than an hour.
Unreserved ??general?ˉ tickets cost 42.
For Ranthambhore , six daily trains go to Sawai Madhopur (5.
45am, 11.
05am, 2.
10pm, 5.
25pm, 5.
35pm and 11.
30pm), plus plenty more on selected days.
Unreserved ??general?ˉ tickets for the two-hour trip cost 50.
Only one train (11.
45pm) goes to Jaisalmer .
TRANSPORT FROM JAIPUR Main Buses from Jaipur DESTINATION FARE () DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (OF NON-AC SERVICES) Agra 179, AC 392 5? half-hourly, 24 hours Ajmer 120, AC 204 2? every 10 minutes, 24 hours Bharatpur 165 4? half-hourly, 24 hours Bikaner 241 8 half-hourly until 6pm Bundi 154, AC 230 5 half-hourly until midnight Chittorgarh 230, AC 300-570 7 half-hourly until 10pm Delhi 210, AC 425-750 5? half-hourly, 24 hours Jaisalmer AC 1073 15 1 daily (midnight) Jhunjhunu 131 5 half-hourly Jodhpur 262, AC 583 7 hourly, 24 hours Kota 181, AC 245 5 half-hourly until 11pm Mt Abu 372 13 1 daily (9.
30am) Nawalgarh 107 4 hourly, 5am-4.
30pm Pushkar 120 3 6 daily (6.
45am, 7.
10am, 9.
20am, 1pm, 8.
40pm, 11.
15pm) (direct) Sawai 132, AC 180 6 5 daily (6am, 6.
15am, 6.
40am, 2.
30pm, AC 5.
30pm) Madhopur Udaipur 275, AC 702 10 every 45 minutes, 4am-noon (AC 9.
30pm & 11pm) Major Trains from Jaipur DESTINATION TRAIN DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FARE ( ) Agra 19666 Udaipur-Kurj Exp 6.
15am 11am 135/362 (A) (Cantonment) Ahmedabad 12958 Ahmedabad SJ 12.
35am 9.
35am 923/1335 (B) Rajdhani Exp Ajmer 12195 Intercity Express 9.
40am 11.
45am 65/230 (C) Bikaner 12307 Howrah-Jodhpur Exp 12.
15am 8am 198/521 (A) Delhi (New Delhi) 12016 Ajmer Shatabdi 5.
50pm 10.
40pm 555/1150 (E) Delhi (S Rohilla) 12985 Dee Double Decker 6am 10.
30am 360 (D) Jaisalmer 14659 Delhi-Jaisalmer Exp 11.
45pm 11am 252/703 (A) Jodhpur 12307 Howrah-Jodhpur Exp 12.
15am 6am 178/459 (A) Sawai 12466 Intercity Exp 11.
05am 1.
15pm 65/140/230 (F) Madhopur Udaipur 19665 Kurj-Udaipur Exp 10.
30pm 6.
10am 194/533 (A) Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC, (B) 3AC/2AC, (C) 2nd-class seat/AC chair, (D) AC chair, (E) AC chair/1AC, (F) 2nd-class seat/sleeper/AC chair Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT There are no bus services from the airport, which is 12km southeast of the city, although a metro line was under construction at the time of research (it won?ˉt open for some time, though).
An autorickshaw/taxi costs at least 200/400.
There?ˉs a prepaid taxi booth inside the airport.
AUTORICKSHAW There are prepaid autorickshaw stands at the bus and train stations.
Rates are fixed by the government, which means you don?ˉt have to haggle.
Keep hold of your docket, though, until you reach your destination.
Your driver won?ˉt get paid without it.
In other cases you should be prepared to bargain hard.
Expect to pay at least 50 from the train or bus station to the Old City.
CYCLE-RICKSHAW Slightly cheaper than autorickshaws, but not much (about 40 from train station to Old City).
Always agree on a fare beforehand, but don?ˉt forget to tip ¨C it?ˉs a tough job in the Rajasthani heat, this one.
TAXI There are unmetered taxis available which will require negotiating a fare, or you can try Mericar ( 4188888; www.mericar.in; flagfall incl 2km 50, afterwards per km 13, 25% night surcharge 10pm-5am) .
It?ˉs a 24-hour service and taxis can also be hired for sightseeing for four-/six-/eight-hour blocks, costing 650/1000/1300.
TOP OF CHAPTER Around Jaipur Amber The formidable, magnificent, honey-hued fort of Amber (pronounced Amer), an ethereal example of Rajput architecture, rises from a rocky mountainside about 11km northeast of Jaipur, and is the city?ˉs must-see sight.
Amber was the former capital of Jaipur state and was built by the Kachhwaha Raj-puts, who hailed from Gwalior, in present-day Madhya Pradesh, where they reigned for over 800 years.
They financed construction of the fort with war booty, which was begun in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar?ˉs army.
It was later extended and completed by the Jai Singhs before they moved to Jaipur on the plains below.
Sights Amber Fort FORT (Indian/foreigner 25/200, guide 200, audio guide Hindi/other 100/150; 8am-6pm, last entry 5.
30pm) This magnificent fort is made up largely of a royal palace, built from pale yellow and pink sandstone and white marble, and divided into four main sections, each with its own courtyard.
You can trudge up to the fort from the road in about 10 minutes (cold drinks are available at the top).
However, riding up on elephant back ( 7.
30am-noon & 3.
30pm, 900 one way per 2 passengers) is very popular.
A return jeep to the top and back costs 300 for five passengers, including one hour waiting time.
If you walk or ride an elephant you will enter Amber Fort through Suraj Pol (Sun Gate), which leads to the Jaleb Chowk (Main Courtyard), where returning armies would display their war booty to the populace ¨C women could view this area from the veiled windows of the palace.
The ticket office is directly across the courtyard from Suraj Pol.
If you arrive by car you will enter through Chand Pol (Moon Gate) on the opposite side of Jaleb Chowk.
Hiring a guide or grabbing an audio guide is highly recommended as there are very few signs and many blind alleys.
From Jaleb Chowk, an imposing stairway leads up to the main palace, but first it?ˉs worth taking the steps just to the right, which lead to the small Siladevi Temple ( 6am-noon & 4-8pm, photography prohibited) .
Every day from the 16th century until 1980 (when the government banned the practice), a goat was sacrificed here.
Heading back to the main stairway will take you up to the second courtyard and the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), which has a double row of columns, each topped by a capital in the shape of an elephant, and latticed galleries above.
The maharaja?ˉs apartments are located around the third courtyard ¨C you enter through th
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