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bone figurines from the Early Bronze Age.
Sleeping & Eating Best Western Lucy Hotel HOTEL $$ ( 22210 23831; www.lucy-hotel.
gr; Voudouri 10; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €60/80/110/130; ) Rooms at the well-managed Lucy are on the modern side, with stylish furnishings and long desks.
The multilingual staff can clue you in to the adjacent boardwalk cafe scene.
Pantheon 1900 TAPAS $ (Voudouri; tapas €3-7; lunch & dinner) Nestled in a handsome waterfront neoclassical building, this smart tapas bar features great Greek wines, along with tasty small plates and snappy service.
Information Several ATMs cluster near the corner of Venizelou and Voudouri.
Hospital ( 22210 21902; cnr Gazepi & Hatzopoulou) Post Office (cnr Karamourtzouni & Kriezotou; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) Tourist Police ( 22210 77777) Getting There & Away From Halkida, buses serve Athens, Ioannina and Thessaloniki.
Regular trains also connect Halkida with Athens, and an express service with Thessaloniki.
From Halkida KTEL bus station ( 22210 22640; cnr Styron & Arethousis), 3km east of the Old Bridge, buses also connect to the following destinations on Evia: DESTINATION FARE TIME FREQUENCY Eretria €2 25min hourly Karystos €11.
70 3hr 3 daily Kymi Town & Paralia Kymis €8.
50 2hr hourly Limni €7.
90 2hr 3 daily Loutra Edipsou €12 2hr 1 daily Steni €3 1hr 4 daily Eretria POP 3220 From Halkida, the first place of interest for travellers is Eretria, which has a small harbour and a lively boardwalk of fish tavernas, cafes and beach bars.
Sights West of the ancient acropolis are the remains of a theatre with a subterranean passage once used by actors to reach the stage.
Close by, the Archaeological Museum of Eretria (admission €2; 8.
30am-3pm Tue-Sun) includes the fascinating House of Mosaics, dating from the 4th century BC and the 8th-century BC Sanctuary of Apollo.
Sleeping & Eating Milos Camping CAMPGROUND $ ( 22290 60420; www.camping-in-evia.
gr; camp sites per adult/tent €6.
40) This well- managed, shaded campground 1km northwest of Eretria has a small restaurant, bar and a 200m-long pebble beach.
Villa Belmar Apartments APARTMENT $$ ( 6971588424; www.villabelmar.
gr; s/d/f incl breakfast from €50/70/95; ) Just 100m southwest of the port, these stylish apartments, Eretria¡¯s smartest digs, are managed by welcoming sisters Lina and Renia.
You can climb into the sea from the waterfront deck.
Taverna Cubana TAVERNA $ (Arheou Theatrou 44; mains €5-11) Just past the supermarket, and known for well-priced fresh fish, late-night grills and tasty seafood appetisers.
Getting There & Away Ferries travel daily between Eretria and Skala Oropou.
Purchase tickets from the dock kiosks.
Steni POP 1080 From Halkida, it¡¯s 31km to the lovely mountain village of Steni, with its gurgling springs and shady plane trees.
Steni is the starting point for hiking up Mt Dirfys (1743m), Evia¡¯s highest mountain.
The Dirfys Refuge ( 22280 25655; per person €12), at 1120m, can be reached along a 9km dirt road.
From there, it¡¯s a steep 7km to the summit.
Experienced hikers should allow about six hours from Steni to the summit.
For lodging information at the refuge, contact Minas Patsourakis ( 6940687312, 6974057517, 22210 85760) and the EOS-affiliated Halkida Alpine Club ( 22210 25230; www.eoschalkidas.
gr; Angeli Gouviou 22, Halkida).
See Anavasi¡¯s detailed topo map, Mt Dirfys .
A twisting road continues from Steni to Paralia Hiliadou on the north coast, where a grove of maple and chestnut trees borders a fine pebble-and-sand beach, along with a few domatia (private rooms) and tavernas.
Sleeping & Eating Hotel Dirfys HOTEL $ ( 22280 51370; s/d incl breakfast €35/45; ) This is the most appealing of Steni¡¯s three hotels.
All rooms have balcony views of the surrounding forest, sparkling bathrooms, and the hotel taverna draws locals come evening.
Taverna Kissos TAVERNA $ (mains €7-12) One of a cluster of attractive brook-side eateries, with hearty meat grills, mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) and generous salads prepared from locally grown greens.
Kymi & Paralia Kymis POP 3040 The workaday town of Kymi perks up at dusk when the town square comes to life.
The port of Paralia Kymis, 4km downhill, is the departure point for ferries to Skyros, Alonnisos and Skopelos.
The Folklore Museum ( 22220 22011; admission €1.
50; 10.
30am-1pm Wed, 10.
30am-2pm Sat & Sun), 30m downhill from the main square,includes a display honouring Kymi-born Dr George Papanikolaou, inventor of the Pap smear test.
Kymi is home to Figs of Kymi ( 22220 31722; figkimi@otenet.
gr; 9am-9pm Sep-Nov & by appointment), a lively agricultural co-op supporting local fig farmers and sustainable production.
Preservative-free figs and jams are on sale in the shop.
Sleeping & Eating In Paralia Kymis, the reliable Hotel Beis ( 22220 22604; www.hotel-beis.
gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/60/70; ) is opposite the ferry dock for Skyros.
A string of tavernas and ouzeries (places serving ouzo and light snacks) lines the waterfront.
Just 3km south in tiny Platana, check out the exceptional fish taverna Koutelos ( 22220 71272; mains €7-11; lunch & dinner).
TOP OF CHAPTER Northern Evia From Halkida a road heads north to Psahna, the gateway to the highly scenic mountainous interior of northern Evia.
A good road climbs and twists 60km through pine forests to the woodsy village of Prokopi, home of the pilgrimage church of St John the Russian.
At Strofylia, the road heads southwest to picturesque Limni, then north to quaint Loutra Edipsou and the ferry port at Agiokambos.
Loutra Edipsou POP 3600 The classic spa resort of Loutra Edipsou has therapeutic sulphur waters, celebrated since antiquity.
Famous skinny-dippers have included Aristotle, Plutarch and Sylla.
Today, the town has Greece¡¯s most up-to-date hydrotherapy and physiotherapy centres.
The town beach (Paralia Loutron) heats up year-round thanks to the thermal waters that spill into the bay.
Activities Most hotels offer various spa treatments, from simple hot baths (€5) to four-hand massages (€160).
The more affordable of the resort¡¯s two big spas is the welcoming EOT Hydrotherapy-Physiotherapy Centre ( 22260 23501; 25 March St 37; 7am-1pm & 5-7pm 1 Jun- 31 Oct), speckled with palm trees and a large outdoor pool that mixes mineral and sea water.
Hydromassage bath treatments start at €8.
Ultra-posh Thermae Sylla Hotel & Spa ( 22260 60100; www.thermaesylla.
gr; Posidonos 2), with a late-Roman ambience befitting its name, offers assorted health and beauty treatments, from thermal mud baths to seaweed body wraps.
Sleeping & Eating Three snappy waterfront eateries worth a taste are Ouzerie Ta Kohilia ( 22260 23478; 28 October; mains €4-7; lunch & dinner) for mezedhes (appetisers), Alli Yefsi ( 6984460759; mains €2-4; lunch & dinner) for skewered grills and Captain Cook Self-Service (mains €3-7; lunch & dinner) for every-thing else.
Hotel Kentrikon HOTEL $ ( 22260 22302; www.kentrikonhotel.com; 25 Martiou 14; s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/50/60; ) Managed by Greek-Irish Konstantinos and Una, the Kentrikon is equal parts kitsch and old-world charm.
Rooms are spacious and bright, with modern
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