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Portaria; mains €6-14) Head to the Portaria plateia to find this welcoming spot, set under plane trees and serving outstanding Pelion favourites such as slow-cooked ??lamb-in-the-jug?ˉ (€11) and roasted wild greens with egg (€8).
MAKRINITSA |?|?|a|±|?|-|?|3|2|? POP 650 Clinging to a mountainside, Makrinitsa is aptly called the Balcony of Pelion.
From a distance, the traditional houses give the impression that they?ˉre stacked on top of one another.
Up close, the whitewashed structures are threaded with steep stairs crowded with geraniums, hydrangeas and roses.
Further up, the path leads to more than 50 stone water fountains.
It is one of the loveliest of the Pelion villages and, because of its proximity to Volos, also the most visited.
The village is a pedestrian zone; a bus terminus and shaded car park mark the entrance.
The central square is anchored by a massive plane tree with a kid- friendly hollow, a marble fountain and the tiny chapel of Agia Panagia.
Sights Museum of Folk Art MUSEUM (admission €2; 10am-4.
30pm Tue-Sun) This restored 1844 mansion has well-displayed relics, including an old tsipouro still, a Victrola phonograph ??talking machine?ˉ and a hidden water fountain built into a stone wall.
Sleeping & Eating Several hotels are scattered around the village.
Prices listed here can increase by 50% on winter weekends.
Stop for the views at the main square, but look beyond it for the best eateries.
Arhontiko Repana GUESTHOUSE $ ( 24280 99067; www.repana.
gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €45/55/75; ) For hospitality and value, we love this friendly, family-run place.
Rooms are homely, comfortable and decked out with wood and red carpets.
One has an open fireplace.
Sisilianou Arhontiko GUESTHOUSE $$ ( 24280 99556; www.arhontiko-sisilianou.
gr; d incl breakfast €75-90; ) This elegant rebuilt mansion has rooms of varying sizes (the small are a bit claustrophobic) and is decorated in period furniture with well-appointed bathrooms.
Room 7 has mountain views from the bed.
If you?ˉre lucky, the owner?ˉs father, Nico, might take you on a Sunday outing.
Taverna Alpha-Beta TAVERNA $ (mains €7-11; Tue-Sun) Taverna A-B, 150m past the square, makes the most of strictly local and seasonal produce and meat in mountain favourites such as rabbit in red-wine sauce, along with well-made appetisers and salads.
The view from the verandah merits a glass of the house red by itself.
Taverna Leonidas TAVERNA $ (mains €6-10; lunch & dinner daily, closed Mon-Fri in winter) Just past the square, this is a good choice for local fare and views below.
TOP FIVE QUIRKY MUSEUMS OF THE PELION Part of the Pelion Peninsula?ˉs character derives from its rugged geography and virtual isolation, and the region is well known for its unique art, cuisine and architecture.
Much of that exceptional spirit is captured in a handful of small private museums, each one a minor revelation of the people and the land.
Check out these gems: ? Museum of the Olive ? Serpentine Organic Garden ? Theophilos Museum ? Skolio tou Riga Museum (Hellinomouseion; 24260 23708; 9am-2pm & 6-8pm) ? Old Radio Museum Northeast Pelion ZAGORA |||?|£|ˉ|±|? POP 3821 From Hania, the road zigzags down through chestnut trees to a junction leading to Zagora, the largest of the Pelion villages and a major fruit-growing centre ¨C it?ˉs the apple capital of Greece.
Until blight ruined the silk industry in 1850, the town exported fine silk around the continent.
Two War of Independence landmarks ¨C the museum and library ¨C have their roots in Zagora.
For medical emergencies, contact the Zagora Health Centre ( 24260 22591) and, for internet use, drop by Ylien Cafe (Plateia Agios Georgios) on the main square.
Sleeping & Eating Arhontiko Dhrakopoulou HOSTEL $ ( 24260 23566; fax 24260 23460; r incl breakfast €40) The local women?ˉs association manages this homey lodging, next to Plateia Agios Georgios.
A local flower designates each of five simply furnished rooms.
Arhontiko Stamou GUESTHOUSE $$ ( 24260 23880; www.stamou-hotel.com; s €55, d €55-70, tr €80, incl breakfast; ) Arhontiko Stamou, off Plateia Agios Georgios, is a handsome and spacious villa (c.
1863) that shares the courtyard with the mellow Caf¨| Anemella (Greek for silkworm).
The knowledgeable owner will point you in the right direction.
Taverna Niki TAVERNA $ (Meintani; mains €4-7.
50) In Plateia Sotira, flower-draped Taverna Niki is excellent for mayirefta, grills and salads (Niki is a chef).
AROUND ZAGORA The laid-back village of Pouri, which spills down a steep mountainside to a small bay, is home to a few tavernas clustered beneath the church.
Just 3km down the hill, Pouri boasts two fine swimming beaches, pebbly Elitsa and sandy Analipsi.
Sights Popotech Workshop GALLERY ( 6945447878; www.popotech.
blogspot.com) A couple of kilometres south of Pouri is Popotech Workshop, where Irish and Dutch transplants Gemma and Gary create unique jewellery, ceramics and found-metal sculpture.
You?ˉll spot their quirky sculptures from the road.
Sleeping & Eating Panorama Rooms B&B $$ ( 6938810309, 24260 23168; r incl breakfast €60; ) If this end-of-the-road nest appeals, consider lingering at the lovely Panorama Rooms, where apple farmers Vasiliki and Theoharis stock a common kitchen with the family?ˉs homemade cheese.
Taverna Plimari TAVERNA $ (Analipsi beach; mains €7-10; Easter-Oct) Three kilometres down the hill, on sandy Analipsi beach, is the superb Taverna Plimari, where, as the owner says as he views his olive trees and water, ??if someone wants to live their dream in Greece, this is the place?ˉ.
ZAGORA TO KISSOS Picturesque villages adorn the road from Zagora to Tsagarada, one of the most scenically spectacular in the Pelion.
The village of Anilio (??sunless?ˉ in Greek) rests in the shadow of a ridge of chestnut and walnut trees, a rich source for the Anilion Women?ˉs Agricultural Group ( 24260 31329) at the northern end of the village, which makes and sells wonderful jams and pastries.
The flower-draped village of Kissos is built on steep terraces surrounding the 18th-century Church of Agia Marina, where the frescoes are considered the finest in the Pelion.
In Kissos stop for lunch or dinner at Taverna 5F (O Makis; mains €4-8; lunch & dinner), great for dolmadhes, or at Taverna Klimataria (mains €6.
50-9.
50) for spetsofai (€7.
50).
HOREFTO |?|ˉ|±|¥|′|3|ˉ Eight kilometres downhill from Zagora, Horefto is a low-key resort with palm trees and a long sandy beach.
It?ˉs also the mythical home of Chiron, a roving centaur who healed the sick in the days when doctors still made house calls.
The main beach is very decent, while isolated Agia Serandabeach fills a beautiful cove 2km south, with a simple domatia and taverna nearby.
Sleeping & Eating Hotel Cleopatra HOTEL $ ( 24260 22606; s/d €35/50; ) This vine-adorned hotel has spacious tile-and- wood rooms, balconies and overhead fans, making it good value.
It?ˉs opposite the beach as you enter Horefto.
Hotel Aeolos HOTEL $$ ( 24260 23260; d/apt from €80/100; ) An elegant in-town spot.
Marabou Hotel HOTEL $$ ( 24260 23710; www.marabouhotel.
gr; s/d/ste €45/70/110; ) Marabou Hotel is a comfortable hotel that sits on a green hi
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