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les and doubles with desk, TV, fan and squat-loo bathroom.
The manager speaks English.
KANTANAGAR TEMPLE Set in the graceful heart of gorgeous countryside, the rouge sandcastle of Kantanagar Temple , known locally as Kantaji, is a stunning block of religious artwork, and one of the most impressive Hindu monuments in Bangladesh.
Built in 1752 by Pran Nath, a renowned maharaja from Dinajpur, it is the country?ˉs finest example of brick and terracotta style.
Its most remarkable feature, typical of late Mughal-era temples, is its superb surface decoration, with infinite panels of sculpted terracotta plaques depicting both figural and floral motifs.
The folk artists did not lack imagination or a sense of humour.
One demon is depicted swallowing monkeys, which promptly reappear from his ear.
Other scenes are more domestic, such as a wife massaging her husband?ˉs legs and a lady combing lice from another?ˉs hair.
Amorous scenes are often placed in obscure corners.
These intricate, harmonious scenes are like a richly embroidered carpet.
The 15-sq-m, three-storey edifice was originally crowned with nine ornamental two-storey towers, which collapsed during the great earthquake of 1897 and were never replaced.
The building sits in a courtyard surrounded by offices and pilgrims?ˉ quarters (now occupied by several Hindu families), all protected by a stout wall.
Visitors can no longer go inside the temple, which houses a Krishna shrine, but the intricate detail of its exterior will keep you engaged.
The centuries-old Hindu festival of Maha Raas Leela ¨C which celebrates a young Lord Krishna ¨C takes place here around full moon each November, attracting up to 200,000 pilgrims! Almost as much of an attraction is the utter peace and tranquillity of the site; after you?ˉve finished fawning over the temple take a stroll through the fields down to the nearby river.
In the dry season the sandbanks exposed by the dropping water levels make a handy cricket pitch for local children.
Getting There & Away Buses run regularly all day from Dinajpur?ˉs main bus stand to the village of Kantangar (Tk 20, 30 minutes, 7am to 7pm).
From the main road where the bus drops you off it?ˉs a lovely 10-minute walk to the temple, over a river, through a couple of mud-hut villages and past stretches of lush farmland.
Turn left as you get off the bus and walk towards the river.
Cross the rickety bamboo bridge (Tk 10) and just keep following the main path.
Eating Food Garden $$ CHINESE Offline map (Station Rd; mains Tk 150-300; 11am-11pm) A bright and cheerful Chinese restaurant that is popular at both lunch and dinnertime.
It?ˉs a great respite from the searing intensity of the streets.
Does half-portions, too.
Purnima $ BANGLADESHI Offline map (TNT Rd; meals Tk 100-150; 9am-11pm) This small place, just down from Pabna Sweets, is more of a cafe than a restaurant, but locals say the chef here cooks up the best kachi biryani in town, so it?ˉs worth coming here for at least one meal.
Otherwise, it?ˉs a clean, trendy place to stop for a cold drink or an instant coffee (Tk 20).
No English sign, or English menu.
Look for the tinted windows.
New Hotel $ BANGLADESHI Offline map (Station Rd; mains from Tk 40; 7am-11pm) One of the better Bangladeshi restaurants in the town centre, New Hotel?ˉs restaurant is very popular and open later than most.
There are vegetarian dishes here, too.
Not much English.
Pabna Sweets $ SWEETS Offline map (TNT Rd; 6am-10pm) Dinajpur?ˉs best shop for Bengali sweets and misthi doi (sweet yogurt).
Information AB Bank ATM Offline map (Maldapoti Rd) Accepts foreign cards.
Galaxy Computers (off Station Rd; per hr Tk 30; 10.
30am-9pm) Getting There & Away Bus The main bus stand is on Bypass Rd and is a Tk 20 rickshaw ride from town.
Destinations include Kantanagar Temple (Kantaji; Tk 20, 30 minutes, 7am to 7pm) and Rangpur (Tk 100, two hours, 6.
30am to 6pm).
A short stretch of Station Rd known as Kalitola contains a cluster of offices for coach companies, which run services to Dhaka, and the ticket office for BRTC, which has two daily buses to Rajshahi and regular buses to Bogra.
The BRTC bus stand is close to the main bus stand, on a lane that runs parallel to and west of Bypass Rd.
Destinations: Dhaka Tk 500, 10 hours, 7am to midnight Rajshahi Tk 240, six hours, 6.
30am and 4pm Bogra Tk 150, 3? hours, 6.
30am to 3pm Train It?ˉs quicker to catch buses for other destinations within Rajshahi division, but you might want to consider the train for Dhaka (1st berth/1st seat/ shuvon Tk 535/370/185, 10 hours, 8.
10am and 9.
The 8.
10am doesn?ˉt run on Wednesday and the 9.
50pm doesn?ˉt run on Monday.
Rajshahi 0721 / POP 470,000 Built on the northern bank of the Padma River, Rajshahi is a fun university town with enough colour and attractions to entertain for a short visit.
It also makes a sensible base from which to dig through the layers of history in Sona Masjid, Puthia and Natore.
The riverbank by the Padma River affords pleasant views and, in the late afternoon, a carnival-like atmosphere pervades with people strolling and chatting, children playing and vendors selling ice cream and other snacks.
Looking across the vast flood plain, you will see India (the border is about 2km beyond the opposite bank), where the river is called the Ganges.
In the dry season it is sometimes possible to walk across the riverbed, which aids the thriving smuggling trade along the border.
In any case, you can hop across on a boat (Tk 10).
Note: the nearest official border crossing is at Sona Masjid.
Sights Varendra Research Museum MUSEUM Offline map Google map (admission free; 10am-5pm Sat-Wed, 2.
30-5pm Fri) Founded in 1910 with the support of the maharaja of Dighapatia, the Varendra Research Museum is managed by Rajshahi University (RU), and is the oldest museum in the country.
The predominantly British-style building has some interesting Hindu¨CBuddhist features, including a trefoil arch over the doorways and windows.
A small rekha temple forms the roof.
Inside, artefacts from all over the subcontinent are on display, including some rare examples from the ancient city of Mohenjodaro in Pakistan, and a superb collection of local Hindu sculpture.
Rajshahi Sights 1Baro Kuthi B4 2 Collegiate School B3 3 Fuller House B3 4Mosque A3 5 New Market C2 6 Rajshahi Government College B3 7 Saheb Bazar B3 8 Varendra Research Museum A3 Sleeping 9 Hotel Dalas International C1 10 Hotel Nice C3 11 Red Castle B3 Eating 12Aristocrat Coffee Shop & Restaurant C3 13 Bismallah Hotel C3 14 Chili?ˉs Fast Food C3 15 Rajshahi Mistanno Vander C3 16Snack Stalls B4 Information AB Bank ATM (see 13) Transport 17Bus Booking Offices for Dhaka D1 18Buses to Sona Masjid C1 19Main Bus Stand D1 20Tyaara Travels International C1 Buildings of the British Raj ARCHITECTURE Near the centre of Rajshahi are some Raj-era buildings.
Rajshahi Government College Offline map Google map , which dates from 1873 when several maharajas donated money for its establishment, is an elegant two-storey edifice with beautiful semicircular arched windows.
Others nearby include Collegiate School Offline map Google map (1836), which consists of two single-storey structures east of the college, with v
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