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them everywhere (there are around 400,000 of them on the streets on any one day!), and when traffic is crowded (as it usually is) they?ˉre not much slower than anything else that moves.
Rickshaws are restricted from moving right across the city by traffic regulations and sheer distances, so you can usually travel only short distances, within a particular neighbourhood.
Prices are negotiated.
We find that Tk 10 per kilometre is normally about right.
Taxi Taxis are harder to find than CNGs.
There are two types of taxis on the roads of Dhaka.
The yellow Navana taxis are more spacious, have air-con and are usually cleaner than their black counterparts, but you pay for the difference.
Meters in yellow taxis clock more quickly and at a higher rate than the black taxis, but this is often irrelevant because, as with CNGs, most drivers are reluctant to use the meters.
Tempo Fast and cheap to use, tempos (large shared auto-rickshaws) are a convenient way to travel if you know where you?ˉre going, aren?ˉt carrying much luggage and don?ˉt mind rib-cage compression.
A trip from Gabtali bus stand to Farm Gate costs around Tk 10.
Tomtom Unashamedly touristy, horse-drawn carriages, or tomtoms, can still be found on the outskirts of Old Dhaka.
You?ˉll see them trotting along from the Gulistan Crossing down to Sadarghat (per person Tk 20), picking up whoever they can as they go.
Top of section Dhaka Division Includes ? Sonargaon Dhamrai Mymensingh Around Mymensingh Birisiri Around Birisiri Why Go? Enveloping the city of Dhaka, and including some destinations that make great day trips from the capital, Dhaka division stretches for more than 250km from south to north, reaching right up to the border with the Garo Hills in India.
It?ˉs a rural wonderland, comprising some 25,000 villages, and much of the region is given over to radiant rice paddies, filling your vision with more hues of green than you ever knew existed.
A smattering of wonderfully romantic, slowly decaying ruins also lends a historic air to the region, but it?ˉs the land in the far north of Dhaka division that has perhaps the greatest pull.
This is where glistening paddy fields give way to dappled forests, great rivers and hilly panoramas, and where the indigenous culture of the Garo people awaits the more adventurous traveller.
When to Go Oct¨CMar The dry season means off-the-beaten-track trips in the far north.
Jun/Jul Dhamrai has chariot-pulling during the Rath Jatra festival.
Jun¨CSep Monsoon brings boggy roads, but the landscape is a sight in itself.
Best Places for History ? Sonargaon ? Muktagacha ? Mymensingh Best Landscapes ? China Clay Hills ? Someswari River by Birisiri ? Sonargaon Dhaka Division Highlights Explore charmingly dilapidated ruined mansions, little-visited ancient mosques and a stunning rajbari-turned-museum in Bangladesh?ˉs one-time capital of Sonargaon (Click here ) Plug yourself into the Adivasi way of life at the remote forested village of Birisiri (Click here ) Hike, boat or ride a rickshaw to the small but stunning turquoise lake at the China Clay Hills (Click here ) Wander the old-town market streets and enjoy tree-shaded riverside walks in the laidback town of Mymensingh (Click here ) Meet the craftspeople at the unusual metalcraft workshops in the Hindu village of Dhamrai (Click here ) Examine the crumbling 300-year-old ruins of the once-magnificent rajbari at Muktagacha (Click here ) Sonargaon Sonargaon, or Golden City, was the eastern capital of Bengal at various times in history.
It slipped into decline when Muslim rulers decided to move their capital to Dhaka in the 17th century, and is now little more than a couple of villages with a scattering of ruins.
It makes an excellent day drip from Dhaka, though, combining countryside, culture, archaeology and adventure in one easily accessible bundle.
Very little remains of the original city ¨C a couple of mosques and some indistinguishable mounds of earth, most of which are found around the small village of Mograpara to the west of the main highway.
What most people now visit for is Painam Nagar, a charmingly decaying street of dilapidated mansions built by wealthy Hindu merchants just over a century ago, and Sadarbari, a beautifully restored rajbari (Raj- era palace) with a gorgeous pondside setting and an interesting folk-art museum.
Sights & Activities Sadarbari MUSEUM Offline map Google map (folk-art museum; admission Tk 100; 9am-5pm Fri-Tue) Built in 1901, this stunning rajbari is an appropriate building for a folk-art museum.
The building has two facades.
The one facing the main road, with steps leading down to the water and life- size English horsemen in stucco on either side, is one of the most picturesque in Bangladesh.
The other, at the museum?ˉs entrance, is profusely embellished with a mosaic of blue and white tiles, and has an Andalucian look to it.
Inside, the unadorned rooms are stuffed full of folk art and handicrafts from the 17th century onwards.
Around the back of the rajbari, and on the opposite side of the lake, is a new building containing another museum of folk-art objects.
The beautiful water-soaked gardens around the back of rajbari are another highlight, and perfect picnic territory.
Your ticket gains you entrance to the grounds as a whole, as well as to both museums.
It takes about 30 minutes to walk here from where the bus drops you off.
Rickshaws (Tk 10 to Tk 20) are also widely available.
Sonargaon Sights 1 Abdul Hamid's Mosque B1 2 Goaldi Mosque B1 3New Museum C2 4 Painam Nagar C1 5 Sadarbari C2 Eating 6Roadside Restaurants C2 Painam Nagar RUINS Offline map Google map The once-elegant town of Painam Nagar is busy fighting a losing battle with nature, and with every passing year the trees and vines drape themselves a little further over the decaying houses.
The result is a delightful ghost-town quality where the buildings appear to hang like exotic fruits from the branches of the trees.
Constructed almost entirely between 1895 and 1905 on a small segment of the ancient capital city, this tiny settlement consists of a single street, lined with around 50 (now dilapidated) mansions built by wealthy Hindu merchants.
At the time of Partition, many owners fled to India, leaving their elegant homes in the care of poor tenants, who did nothing to maintain them.
Most of the remaining owners pulled out during the anti- Hindu riots of 1964, which led to the 1965 Indo-Pakistan War.
Despite the rot, a few people continue to live in some of the houses and their bright shades add a technicolour tint to the village.
Goaldi Mosque MOSQUE Offline map Google map Built in 1519, and now virtually hidden behind thick bamboo groves and clusters of mango and jackfruit trees, is the graceful, single-domed Goaldi Mosque.
This is the most impressive of the few extant monuments of the original capital city, and a fine example of pre-Mughal architecture.
It is one of the oldest surviving mosques in the country.
Opposite, and standing beside a pond, is the still-active Abdul Hamid?ˉs Mosque Offline map Google map , originally built in 1705, but now with a more modern look to it due to recent renovations.
Few people know about these mosques (including some rickshaw riders) so it?ˉs often best to walk here.
In any case, it?ˉs a lovely walk across farmland from Painam Nagar and only takes around 15 minutes.
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