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The leafy pitches offer plenty of shade.
You can rent a canoe/kayak here for €21/27 per day.
Hotel Weisses Kreuz HOTEL €€ ( 498 80; www.hotelweisseskreuz.
at; R?merstrasse 5; s €109-119, d €126-186; ) Service is attentive at this central pick, with a cocktail bar and a restaurant rolling out seasonal Austrian fare (mains €16 to €34).
The smart rooms sport cherry- wood furnishings, flat-screen TVs and organic bedding.
Schw?rzler HOTEL €€ ( 49 90; http://schwaerzler.
s-hotels.com; Landstrasse 9; ) This turreted, ivy-clad pick is a far cry from your average business hotel.
Rooms are understated and contemporary, done out in earthy hues and blonde wood, and with the comforts you¡¯d expect for the category ¨C bathrobes, flat-screen TVs, minibars.
Regional produce from organic farms features on the breakfast buffet, and there¡¯s a pool and sauna area for downtime.
Buses 4 and 5 from the train station stop in front of the hotel.
Hotel Bodensee HOTEL €€ MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 423 00; www.hotel-bodensee.
at; Kornmarktstrasse 22; s/d €69/122; ) Right in the thick of things, this hotel¡¯s best rooms are spacious, tastefully decorated in muted tones and sport flat-screenTVs.
Breakfast is a wholesome fresh fruit, muesli and regional produce affair.
Deuring-Schl?ssle HISTORIC HOTEL €€€ MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 478 00; www.deuring-schloessle.
at; Ehre-Guta-Platz 4; d €218-252, ste €330-440; ) Perched above Bregenz in the Oberstadt, this is your archetypal fairy-tale hotel with a turret and ivy-draped walls.
Rooms have medieval charm with antiques and low beams, while marble bathrooms, designer furnishings and wi-fi wing you back to the 21st century.
Eating Restaurants and cafes huddle along the lake front and the streets of the Unterstadt.
In summer little beats a picnic on the banks of the Bodensee; stock up on farm- fresh produce at the weekly Bauernmarkt MAP GOOGLE MAP (Kaiserstrasse; 8am-noon Fri).
Buongustiao DELI, ITALIAN € MAP ( 581 29; www.buongustaio.
at; Anton-Schneider-Strasse 10; lunch €9.
80; 9am-10pm Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat; ) For an authentic Italian lunch or picnic goodies, drop by this deli- restaurant.
The split-level, open-plan interior is a sociable setting for homemade pasta or a glass of prosecco with antipastos.
The €19.
90 Saturday brunch, with wood-oven bread, Italian salumi, cheese and dolci (sweets) is legendary.
Buongustiao¡¯s events ¨C from cookery workshops to live-music nights ¨C are listed on its website.
Cafesito CAFE € MAP GOOGLE MAP (Maurachgasse 6; bagels €2.
50; 7.
30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.
30pm Sat) Tiny Cafesito does the best bagels, brownies and smoothies in town.
Bright-hued, art- plastered walls create a boho-cool backdrop for a light lunch or cup of fair-trade coffee.
KUB Nam Viet CAFE € MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 580 70; www.namviet.
at; Karl-Tizian-Platz 1; lunch €9.
50, mains €10-17; 9am-2am; ) In front of the Kunsthaus, this anthracite-clad cafe opens onto a buzzy terrace.
It¡¯s a popular choice for breakfast, salads, coffee and cake, and Vietnamese dishes like yellow curry and pho bo (beef noodle soup).
Neubeck INTERNATIONAL €€ MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 436 09; www.neubeck.
at; Anton-Schneider-Strasse 5; lunch €11, mains €20-35; 11.
45am-2pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat) Crisp white linen and soft lighting keep the mood intimate and refined at this fin de si¨¨cle bistro, with a secluded courtyard garden.
Chef Nina Sotriffer puts a creative, herby spin on seasonal dishes like Singapore-style noodles with wild gambas (shrimp) and stuffed Breton quail with truffle mash.
Wirtshaus am See AUSTRIAN €€ MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 422 10; www.wirtshausamsee.
at; Seepromenade 2; mains €10.
50-29; 9am-midnight) Snag a table on the lake-front terrace at this mock half-timbered villa, dishing up local specialities like buttery Bodensee whitefish and venison ragout.
It¡¯s also a relaxed spot for quaffing a cold one.
Kornmesser AUSTRIAN €€ MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 548 54; www.kornmesser.
at; Kornmarktstrasse 5; lunch €8.
90, mains €8-27; 9.
30am- midnight Tue-Sun) Baroque meets Bavaria at this attractively converted 18th-century Gasthaus (inn).
Wash down Weissw¨¹rste (herby veal sausages), pork knuckles and other hearty fare with Augustiner Br?u beer in the vaulted interior or chestnut-shaded beer garden.
Deuring-Schl?ssle GASTRONOMIC €€€ ( 478 00; www.deuring-schloessle.
at; Ehre-Guta-Platz 4; mains €19-34, 3-/4-course menu €74/89; 6-10pm Wed-Sat) Whether by the fireside in the wood-panelled salon or in the walled garden, this restaurant is romantic stuff.
Chef Heino Huber makes the most of organic, market-fresh produce, with specialities like Felchen (Bodensee whitefish) with chive mash and organic chicken on lime risotto.
Deuring- Schl?ssle regularly hosts wine tastings and cookery classes.
Drinking & Entertainment Wunderbar BAR MAP GOOGLE MAP (Bahnhofstrasse 4; 10am-4am Mon-Sat, 2pm-1am Sun; ) Bordello meets neobaroque at the Wunderbar, where candles illuminate blood red walls, cherubs and velvet sofas.
Browse the papers, bag a swing on the terrace or sip cocktails as smooth funk plays.
Beach Bar Bregenz BAR MAP GOOGLE MAP (Seepromenade; 4pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat, 11am-midnight Sun late Apr-early Sep) Cool cocktails, palm trees, chilled DJ beats ¨C it¡¯s the Costa del Bodensee every summer at this lake-front beach bar.
Work your relaxed look in a Strandkorb (wicker basket chair).
Cuba BAR MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.cuba-club.
at; Bahnhofstrasse 9; 11am-2am Mon-Sat, from 2pm Sun) Glammed up with chandeliers and a sweeping staircase, this gallery-style bar attracts trendy types with Latin tunes and a top line-up of DJs.
Vorarlberger Landestheater THEATRE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 428 70; www.landestheater.org; Seestrasse 2; ticket office 8am-12.
30pm Mon-Fri) Also known as the Theater am Kornmarkt, this German-language theatre is Vorarlberg¡¯s main stage for opera, drama, comedy and musicals.
OPERA UNDER THE STARS The Bregenzer Festspiele (Bregenz Festival; 407-6; www.bregenzerfestspiele.com; mid-Jul¨C mid-Aug) is the city¡¯s premier cultural festival.
World-class operas, orchestral works and other highly imaginative productions are staged on the open-air Seeb¨¹hne, a floating stage on the lake, in the Festspielhaus and at the Vorarlberger Landestheater.
Information and tickets (€28 to €132) are up for grabs about nine months before the festival.
Information You¡¯ll find plenty of banks and Bankomat machines in central Bregenz, including on Sparkassenplatz and Bahnhofstrasse.
Bodensee-Vorarlberg Tourism ( 434 43; www.bodensee-vorarlberg.com) Free regional accommodation-booking service.
Main post office (Seestrasse 5; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Also has a Bankomat (ATM) machine.
Tourist office ( 49 59; www.bregenz.
travel; Rathausstrasse 35a; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Information on the city and the surrounding area and help with accommodation.
Unfallkrankenhaus ( 4901; Josef Huter Strasse 12) Provincial hospital with emergency ward.
Getting There & Around BICYCLE Fahrradverleih Bregenz MAP GOOGLE MAP (Seepromenade; per day city bike €15-18, e-bike €25; 9am-7pm Apr-Oct) rents quality bikes and has free Bodense
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