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8pm) Getting There & Away Bus Frequent services to Segovia (€5, one hour), Salamanca (€6.
08, 1? hours) andMadrid (€8.
06, 1? hours); a couple of daily buses also head for the main towns inthe Sierra de Gredos.
Car & Motorcycle From Madrid the driving time is around one hour; the toll costs €8.
Train There are services to Madrid (from €6.
80, 1? to two hours), Salamanca(from €8.
55,1? hours, eight daily) and Le¨?n (from €24.
80, three hours, three daily).
Getting Around Local bus 1 runs past the train station to Plaza de la Catedral.
Sierra de Gredos West of Madrid and south of ¨¢vila, the plains of Castilla yield to the precipitousSierra de Gredos, a secret world of lakes and granite mountains rising up to the Picode Almanzor (2592m).
While the occasional castle or sanctuary may catch the eye,the overriding appeal is the scenery.
The sierra is also popular with walkers, mountain bikers and rock climbers, the best seasons being spring (March to May)and autumn (September to November).
Summer (June to August) can be stifling,while in winter (December to February) the trails are covered in snow.
Sights & Activities A convenient gateway to the southern Sierra de Gredos, Arenas de San Pedro isthe sort of place you would use as a base rather than visit for its own sake.
In thetown centre, check out the stout 15th-century Castillo de la Triste Condesa , thesober 14th-century Gothic parish church and the Roman bridge .
A 10-minutewalk north of here is the neoclassical Palacio del Infante Don Luis de Borb¨?n , agilded cage for Carlos III?ˉs imprisoned brother.
Not far from Arenas de San Pedro,Guisando , El Hornillo and El Arenal , a trio of villages at a distance of 5km, 6kmand 9km from Arenas, respectively, have access to walking trails.
To escape the weekend and summer crowds, head for the Sierra de Gredos?ˉ less-frequented northern flank of mountains, which are normally snowcapped until Easter.
Running west off the N502, near Puerta de Pico, the scenic C500 leads pastNavarredonda de Gredos and on to Hoyos del Espino , from where the smallAV931 leads into the sierra, ending after 12km at La Plataforma.
This is the jumping-off point for one of the most picturesque walks, leading to the LagunaGrande , a glassy mountain lake in the shadow of the Pico de Almanzor .
Theeasy-to-moderate walk along a well-marked 8km trail takes about 2? hours each way.
Next to the lake is a refugio (mountain shelter), which is often full, and goodcamping.
From here it?ˉs possible to climb to the top of the Pico de Almanzor (difficult) in about two hours or continue for two hours west to the Circo de CincoLagunas (easy to moderate).
From there you could either backtrack or descend viathe Garganta del Pinar towards the town of Navalperral de Tormes, a rigorous undertaking that can take five hours.
For organised activities, including horse riding,trekking and abseiling, check out Alternativas en el Medio Natural ( 920 3483 85; www.amngredos.com; Hoyos del Espino) .
Sleeping & Eating BOUTIQUE HOTEL El Milano Real €€ ( 920 34 91 08; www.elmilanoreal.com; Calle de Toledo, Hoyos del Espino; r€107, mains €15-19.
50; ) This is a gorgeous place to stay, with wonderful views, a peaceful setting and a fine restaurant.
The accommodation issuper stylish hiding behind the old-world facade.
Each room?ˉs decor reflects thename it has been given; there is a Zen-feel Japanese room, the minimalist-look Manhattan suite and an English suite decorated in country-garden-style floral fabrics.
All have luxuries like hydro-massage baths and DVD players, and breakfastis a gourmet affair.
There is also a spa.
La Casa de Arriba €€ RURAL HOTEL( 920 34 80 24; www.casadearriba.com; Calle de la Cruz 19, Navarredonda deGredos; s/d €67/79; ) Located at the top of the village and well signposted, thislovely hotel brims with rustic charm: wooden beams, wood floors, antique furnishings and thick stone walls.
The restaurant is highly regarded.
El Fogon de Gredos € RURAL HOTEL( 920 37 40 18; www.fogondegredos.com; Carretera Linarejos, Guisando; s/dincl breakfast €26/52) This is the most attractive option in Guisando, offering attractive, spacious rooms with sweeping pine-clad mountain views.
The hostal iseven better known as a restaurant (meals €20) for satisfying, meat-dominated localcuisine.
It?ˉs located (and well signposted) around 1.
5km beyond the town centre, bythe Rio Pelayo.
Camping Los Galayos € CAMPGROUND( 920 37 40 21; www.campinglosgalayos.com; Carretera Linarejos; adult/sites/car €3.
60, 4-person bungalow €93; ) One of the best camping grounds in the region, Los Galayos has a stunning position on the RioPelayo with mountain views.
Ideal for families, there is easy access to a small waterfall and pools of shallow turquoise water for paddling tots.
The restaurantoffers a reduced-price menu for campers (€9.
Information Tourist office ( 920 37 23 68; Plaza de San Pedro; 10am-1.
30pm & 4-8pm)Has walking suggestions.
Getting There & Away Public transport to and throughout the sierra is intermittent at best ¨C renting a car isessential.
Daily buses connect Arenas de San Pedro with Madrid (€11.
75, 2? hours,two daily) and ¨¢vila (€6.
20, 1? hours), except on Sunday.
Salamanca POP 153,470 Whether floodlit by night or bathed in the light of sunset, there?ˉs something magicalabout Salamanca.
This is a city of rare beauty, awash with golden sandstone overlaid with ochre-tinted Latin inscriptions, an extraordinary virtuosity of plateresque and Renaissance styles.
The monumental highlights are many, with theexceptional Plaza Mayor (illuminated to stunning effect at night) an unforgettablehighlight.
But this is also Castilla?ˉs liveliest city; home to a massive Spanish andinternational student population that throngs the streets at night and provides the citywith so much youth and vitality.
SALAMANCA CARD If you plan on visiting most of Salamanca?ˉs attractions, consider the Salamanca Card (www.salamancacard.com) , which entitles you to free entry to most museums, an MP3 audio guide to the city, and discounts at some restaurants, hotels and shops.
It can be purchased online or from both tourist offices, and costs €16/22 for 24/48 hours.
History In 220 BC Celtiberian Salamanca was besieged by Hannibal.
Later, under Romanrule, it was an important staging post on the V¨aa Lata (Ruta de la Plata, or SilverRoute) from the mines in Asturias to Andaluc¨aa.
After the Muslim invasion of Spain,it changed hands repeatedly.
The greatest turning point in the city?ˉs history was thefounding of the university in 1218.
It became the equal of Oxford and Bologna and,by the end of the 15th century, was the focal point of some of the richest artisticactivity in the country.
The city followed the rest of Castilla into decline in the 17thcentury, although by the time Spanish literary hero Miguel de Unamuno becamerector at the university in 1900, Salamanca had essentially recovered.
Throughoutthe 20th century, especially during the civil war and the almost four decades ofFranco?ˉs rule that followed, Salamanca?ˉs university became both the centre forliberal resistance to fascism and the object of Franco?ˉs efforts to impose a compliantacademic philosophy in Spain?ˉs most prestigious university.
To a small degree, thatliberal¨Cconservative tension still surviv
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