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t views over the town below.
It?ˉs often full so do reserve well in advance.
Nordkapp Vandrerhjem HOSTEL € ( 918 24 156; www.hihostels.
no/nordkapp; dm Nkr330, s/d Nkr450/760; ) About 400m south of the turn-off for Honningsv?g from the E69, this 156-bed HI hostel, constructed for workers from the nearby fish factory, is a welcome and welcoming new budget addition to Mager?ya?ˉs sleeping options.
There?ˉs a free washing machine and dryer for guest use and a large common room with a commensurately big-screen TV and dangling chandel-iers.
Sleep in room 407, reputed to house the hostel ghost, if you dare?- Rica Hotel Honningsv?g HOTEL €€€ ( 78 47 72 20; www.rica.
no; s/d from 1380/1630) The big plus of this hotel, reliable as all others in this Norway-wide chain, is its position, right beside the docks.
Grillen , its ¨¤ la carte restaurant, is well worth a visit, whether you?ˉre staying at the hotel or elsewhere, whereas its sister Caroline serves a copious, varied evening buffet.
Nordkapp Camping CAMPGROUND € ( 78 47 33 77; www.nordkappcamping.
no; E69, Skipsfjorden; per person/site Nkr35/110, d Nkr590, 2-/4-bed cabins with outdoor bathroom Nkr570/625, cabins with bathroom Nkr990-1150; May¨Cmid-Sep; ) The well-equipped communal kitchen, friendly service and variety of lodging options more than compensate for the stark location of this campground, the nearest to Honningsv?g.
Eating & Drinking Corner CAFE €€ ( 78 47 63 40; www.cnr.
no, in Norwegian; Fiskerveien 1; mains Nkr175- 245; 10am-11pm) Corner serves the usual pizzas and snacks but also great seafood such as crispy cod tongues, whale or, more conventionally, fried fillet of cod.
It also offers plenty of meaty mains and has a bar with an inviting outdoor terrace overlooking the water.
Artico ICE BAR (www.articoicebar.com; Sj?gata 1a; adult/child Nkr125/30; 10am-9pm Apr-Sep) For a shiver in summer and sense of how Nordkapp must hit the senses in winter, visit this ice bar.
Owner Jos¨| Milares, himself a polar photographer and adventurer, talks with passion of the shapes, bubbles and inadvertent abstract art in the pure ice that he garners freshly each season.
The kids can crawl into an igloo that he constructs each year and, if they?ˉre lucky, meet Lonchas, his particularly furry and charming Alaskan malamute hound.
N?den Pub PUB ( 78 47 27 11; Larsjorda 1; 8pm-2am Tue-Sun) This local favourite near the Rica Hotel often has live music.
A FREE RIDE? The fee for taking the tunnel from the mainland to Mager?ya will, as with all toll tunnels in Norway, be dropped, once construction costs are recovered.
This happy moment should occur in 2013, or maybe earlier ¨C scarcely surprisingly given the savage rates imposed since it was opened.
Information Mager?ya?ˉs tourist office ( 78 47 70 30; www.nordkapp.
no; Fiskeriveien 4b; 8.
30am-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun¨Cmid-Aug, 8.
30am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) , beside the harbour, has one internet point (per session up to one hour Nkr25).
GJESV?R POtP 1 50 stunning drive to the remote fishing village of Gjesv?r , 34km northwest of Honningsv?g, where you?ˉll find two excellent birdwatching outfits.
Rolling tundra, punctuated by dark pools and cropped by reindeer, gives way to a stark, rocky landscape, and then a sudden view of low skerries and the Gjesv?rstappan islands.
Bird Safari BIRDWATCHING ( 41 61 39 83; www.birdsafari.com; adult/youth/child Nkr495/250/free) sails two to three times daily between June and late August to the bird colony on the Gjesv?rstappan islands.
There are an estimated three million nesting birds, including colonies of puffins, skuas, razorbills, kittiwakes, gannets and white- tailed eagles.
Bird Safari also has seafront accommodation (s/d with shared bathroom & kitchen Nkr450/550, apt Nkr895; Jun-Aug) .
Stappan Sj?produkter BIRDWATCHING, FISHING ( 95 03 77 22; www.stappan.com; Jun-Aug, rest of year by reservation) is an altogether smaller concern.
Fisherman Roald Berg, who built the complex with his own hands, will take you birdwatching (adult/child Nkr500/250) in Aurora , his small boat (two departures daily).
Or join him for a fishing expedition (Nkr2000 per hour, maximum four passengers).
He and his photographer partner also run a splendid waterside summer cafe-restaurant ( 11am-10pm; mains around Nkr240) offering delights such as smoked wild salmon sandwiches (Nkr85), cloudberries and cream (Nkr85) and waffles with homemade blueberry jam (Nkr45).
He also has a well-furnished apartment (d/tr/q Nkr900/1200/1350) and will probably have finished building a trio of waterfront cabins by the time you read this.
KAM?YV?R A short detour from the E69 brings you to this tiny, sheltered fishing hamlet, its pastel-shaded cottages and cabins encircling the small harbour.
Arran ( 78 47 51 29; www.arran.
as; s Nkr750-850, d Nkr950-1050; mid-May¨CAug; ) has 44 rooms spread over three quayside buildings.
The Sami family who run it bake their own bread and the menu is always the freshest of fish, hauled from the seas off Mager?ya.
To vary the cuisine it also offers a reindeer special.
If you find it full, several other houses in the village advertise rooms.
And should you fancy a cultural diet, call by the Gallery East of the Sun ( noon- 9pm mid-May¨Cmid-Aug) , featuring the sinuous shapes and bright canvases of artist Eva Schmutterer.
GUARANTEEING A BUS SEAT Should you see a cruise ship heading for port, rush to the tourist office to reserve your bus journey to the North Cape.
The Nkr25 extra that you pay is well worthwhile; readers tell horror tales of scrimmages, arguments and bus drivers simply riding on by, once these monsters of the waves disgorge their masses.
Lakselv & Around POP 300 0plain fishing village of Lakselv, at the head of long, slim Porsangerfjord, has little to detain you.
The name means ??salmon stream?ˉ, which reflects its main appeal for Norwegian holidaymakers.
The tourist office ( 78 46 07 00; www.arctic-active.
no, in Norwegian; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun¨Cmid-Aug, 8.
30am- 4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) is in the lugubrious Porsanger Vesthus hotel.
Sleeping Bungal?ven Vertshus CABINS € ( 95 77 82 11; www.bungalaaven.com; B?rselv; d with shared bathroom Nkr650, 2-bed cabins Nkr450; Jun-Sep) Some 40km up the Rv98 northeast of Lakselv, take a signed turning to reach this convivial converted farmhouse after 2km.
It serves dinner in summer with traditional food for a bargain Nkr200.
The lounge is a cosy haven and the owner plays a mean squeezebox so you may find yourself up and dancing.
There?ˉs also a small camping space too (site Nkr230).
Lakselv Vandrerhjem HOSTEL € ( 78 46 14 76; www.hihostels.
no/lakselv; dm Nkr300, s/d with bathroom Nkr450/550, cabins with bathroom & kitchen Nkr700-800; mid-Jun¨C mid-Aug) This HI-affiliated hostel is in a secluded site amid the trees and surrounded by small lakes.
It makes a great base for gentle strolls and has self- catering facilities.
Follow the E6 southwards from Lakselv for 6km, then take a dirt road to the left for 2km.
Lakselv Hotell HOTEL €€ ( 78 46 54 00; www.lakselvhotell.
no; Karasjokveien; s/d Nkr960/1220; ) Just 2km south of town beside the E6, it has cosy rooms, hilltop fjord vi
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