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iesenter ( 77 66 40 00; www.sommaroy.
no; s/d from Nkr975/1195, 6-8-person cabins Nkr1690-2000; ) with its restaurant, bar, small children?ˉs playground, hot tub and sauna.
If you?ˉre arriving from Senja by the Botnhamn-Brensholmen ferry (www.senjafergene.
no) , the vistas as you cross Kval?ya island, heading westwards for Troms?, are equally stunning.
LYNGEN ALPS Some of the most rugged alpine heights in all Norway ruck up to form the spine of the heavily glaciated Lyngen Peninsula, east of Troms?; you get the best views of them from the eastern shore of 150km-long Lyngenfjord.
The peaks, the highest of which is Jiekkevarre (1837m), offer plenty of opportunities for climbers but this challenging glacial terrain is strictly for the experienced.
The Lyngsdalen Valley, above the industrial village of Furuflaten, is an altogether more accessible and popular hiking area.
The usual route begins at the football pitch south of the bridge over the Lyngdalselva and climbs up the valley to the tip of the glacier Sydbreen, 500m above sea level.
The best map for hiking is Statens Kartverk?ˉs Lyngenhalv?ya at 1:50,000.
Senja Senja, Norway?ˉs second-largest island, rivals Lofoten for natural beauty yet attracts a fraction of its visitors (we meandered the length of its northern coastline and saw only two non-Norwegian vehicles).
A broad agricultural plain laps at Innersida, the island?ˉs eastern coast facing the mainland.
By contrast, birchwoods, moorland and sweetwater lakes extend beneath the bare craggy uplands of the interior.
Along the northwestern coast, Yttersida, knife-ridged peaks rise directly from the Arctic Ocean.
Here, the Rv86 and Rv862, declared a National Tourist Route, link isolated, still-active fishing villages such as Hamn and Mefjordv?r and traffic is minimal.
The now flat, mildly bucking road, almost always within sight of the shore, is a cyclist?ˉs dream.
On the way, pause at the Tungeneset viewing point and scramble over broad slabs of weathered rock to savour the spiky peaks to the west and, eastwards, more gently sculpted crests.
Hamn i Senja TOURIST VILLAGE €€ ( 77 85 98 80; www.hamnisenja.
no; s/d Nkr890/1100, 1/2-bed apt Nkr1390/1440; ) On the site of a former fishing hamlet, Hamn i Senja is a delightful, self-contained, get-away-from-it-all place that sits in its own little cove.
Everything?ˉs smart and new, rebuilt after fire ripped through the former premises.
Nearby is the small dam that held back the waters for what is claimed to be the world?ˉs first hydroelectric plant, established in 1882.
Senjatrollet TROLL THEME PARK (www.senjatrollet.
no; 9am-9pm Jun-Aug) True, there can?ˉt be much competition outside Scandinavia.
But the Senja Troll, 18m high and weighing in at 125,000kg, is the world?ˉs biggest, attested by the Guinness Book of Records .
There?ˉs a tractor and railway carriage for kids to clamber on and a cafe (some fine pewterwork on display for mum and dad to look at) with shelf upon shelf of warty, bucktoothed trolls.
Parents (Nkr100) and children (Nkr70) can enter the bowels of the grinning giant and explore his intestines.
Getting There & Away Two to three daily buses run from Finnsnes to Troms? (2? hours) and Narvik (three hours) with a connection in Buktamoen.
Express ferries connect Finnsnes with Troms? (1? hours) and Harstad (1? hours) two to three times a day.
It?ˉs possible to drive the whole of the northwest coast from Gryllefjord (linked by car ferry with Andenes) to Botnhamn, with its car-ferry link to Brensholmen on Kval?y, then onwards to Troms?.
Westbound, a summertime car ferry connects Skrolsvik, on Senja?ˉs south coast, to Harstad (1? hours, two to four daily).
Finnsnes is also a stop for the Hurtigruten coastal ferry.
Setermoen & Around The wooded town of Setermoen is best known to Norwegians as a military training centre and venue for NATO exercises.
Polar Zoo ARCTIC ANIMAL PARK (www.polarzoo.
no; adult/child Nkr215/125; 9am-4pm or 6pm) This large open-air zoo is 23km south of Setermoen and 3.
3km east of the E6.
It features wildlife of the boreal taiga in spacious enclosures that, but for the metal fencing, are scarcely distinguishable from the surrounding birch forests.
Here you can watch and photograph animals such as brown bears, deer, musk oxen, reindeer, wolves, lynx, wolverines, badgers and both red and polar fox.
Follow the keeper around at feeding time (normally 1pm; check at reception).
For a supplement, children can take part in a Bear Party, making toys to hide for Salt and Pepper, the zoo?ˉs pair of brown bears, to hunt.
Meet the Wolves, by contrast, is an hour of close encounters of the vulpine kind, strictly for over-15s.
Setermoen Church CHURCH ( 10am-5pm Mon-Sat late Jun-early Aug) A bell in the porch of this early- 19th-century octagonal church dates from 1698.
The ingenious heating system, with wood stoves and hot-water pipes beneath the pews, must encourage attendance ¨C or perhaps somnolence ¨C during even the longest sermons.
Forsvarsmuseum MILITARY MUSEUM (adult/child Nkr50/free; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri) Those who are aroused by war games will have fun at the Troms Defence Museum with its evocative interior dioramas and over 20 military vehicles to explore outside.
MIND THAT REINDEER Do keep an eye out for reindeer on the road.
They?ˉre not dangerous and they?ˉre decidedly more charming than annoying.
But they might slow your progress and bring you to a very abrupt halt if you hit one at speed.
Sometimes wandering alone, now and again in herds, they might not be fazed by your inanimate car.
If they refuse to budge, just get out, walk towards them and they?ˉll amble away.
Sleeping Bardu Hotell HOTEL €€ ( 77 18 59 40; www.barduhotell.
no; Toftakerlia 1; s/d from Nkr900/1050; ) The lobby, with pelts splayed across its walls, has a hunting-lodge feel while rooms are decor-ated in a variety of themes such as the four seasons and Adam and Eve.
With plenty of character, it?ˉs popular with adventure-tour groups and visiting military, not least for the comfortable bar and its restaurant, Trollstua .
There?ˉs a sauna, jacuzzi and year-round heated pool, all free to guests.
WESTERN FINNMARK Norway?ˉs northernmost mainland county, Finnmark has been inhabited for around 12,000 years, first by the Komsa hunters of the coastal region and later by Sami fishing cultures and reindeer pastoralists, who settled on the coast and in the vast interior, respectively.
Finnmark?ˉs wild northern coast, dotted with fishing villages, is deeply indented by grand fjords, while the vast interior is dominated by the broad Finnmarksvidda plateau, a stark wilderness with only two major settlements, Karasjok and Kautokeino.
Virtually every Finnmark town was decimated at the end of WWII by retreating Nazi troops, whose scorched-earth policy aimed to delay the advancing Soviets.
Towns were soon reconstructed in the most efficient, yet boxy, building style.
So, in contrast to the spectacular natural surroundings, present-day Finnmark towns are architecturally uninspiring.
Alta POP 18,700ugh the fishing and slate-quarrying town of Alta lies at latitude 70??N, it enjoys a relatively mild climate.
The Alta Museum, with its ancient petroglyphs, is a must-see and the lush green
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