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foten-rorbu.com, in Norwegian; old sea house d/tr/q per person Nkr250, new sea house d Nkr780; 2-6 person rorbuer Nkr1350-2300) Rorbu accommodation is dispersed throughout ??ˉs historic buildings, the more expensive ones fully equipped and furnished with antiques.
The newer sea house, above Brygga restaurant and with trim but plain rooms, has shared bathrooms, despite the hefty price.
Moskenesstraumen Camping CAMPGROUND € ( 76 09 11 48; camping for 1/2/3 persons Nkr90/140/180, caravans Nkr200, 2-/4-bed cabin from Nkr450/650, with bathroom Nkr650/750; Jun-Aug) This wonderful cliff-top campground, just south of the village, has flat, grassy pitches between the rocks, just big enough for your bivouac.
Cabins too have great views, as far as the mainland on clear days.
Brygga Restaurant FISH RESTAURANT €€€ ( 76 09 15 72; mains Nkr200-315, set menu Nkr425, bar lunch special Nkr125; Jun-Sep) Hovering above the water, this is ??ˉs one decent dining choice.
The menu, as is right and proper in a village with such a strong fishing tradition, includes mainly things with fins.
S?RV?GEN Norsk Telemuseum MUSEUM (adult/child Nkr40/20; 11am-5pm mid-Jun¨Cmid-Aug) The Norwegian Telecommunications Museum presents itself as a study in ??cod and communications?ˉ.
Granted, it?ˉs not an immediately winning combination but in fact this small museum commemorates a huge advance in fishing techniques.
In 1906, what was Norway?ˉs second wireless telephone station was established in this tiny hamlet.
From that day on, weather warnings could be speedily passed on and fishing vessels could communicate with each other, pass on news about where the shoals were moving and call up the bait boats.
Maren Anna FISH RESTAURANT €€€ ( 76 09 20 50; mains Nkr220-235, lunch dishes Nkr110-195) Maren Anna is at once pub, restaurant and cafe.
Serving its mainstay of fish, bought daily, fresh from the quayside, portions are generous.
For a table with views over the fishing boats below and what?ˉs claimed, tongue in cheek, to be Norway?ˉs smallest beach, reserve ahead.
It also has a selection of rooms (singles/doubles Nkr400/600) in a nearby building and a couple of rorbuer sleeping five to nine (Nkr1200).
MOSKENES Moskenes Camping CAMPGROUND ( 99 48 94 05; tent/caravan site Nkr120/200; May¨CAug) In a bleak location yet with great waterside views, Moskenes?ˉ only campground is gravel surfaced yet also has a sheltered grassy area for tent campers.
Facilities are continually being upgraded (the owner?ˉs a carpenter) and it couldn?ˉt be more convenient for an early getaway from the ferry terminal, only 400m away.
REINE Reine is a characterless place but gosh, it looks splendid from above, beside its placid lagoon and backed by the sheer rock face of Reinebringen.
You get a great view from the head of the road that drops to the village from the E10.
From June to mid-August, three-hour boat trips are run by Aqua Lofoten (www.aqualofoten.com; adult/child Nkr550/400) to the bird- and fish-rich Moskstraumen maelstrom.
AROUND REINE In summer, the M/S Fjordskyss (www.reinefjorden.
no, in Norwegian; adult/child return Nkr120/60; 25min; 3 daily) runs between Reine and Vindstad through scenic Reinefjord.
From Vindstad, it?ˉs a one-hour hike across the ridge to the abandoned beachside settlement of Bunes , in the shadow of the brooding 610m Helvetestind rock slab.
SAKRIS?Y In Sakris?y, Dagmar Gylseth has collected more than 2500 dolls, antique teddy bears and historic toys over 25 years for her Museum of Dolls & Toys (Dagmars Dukke og Leket?y Museum; adult/child Nkr50/25; 10am-6pm or 8pm late May-Aug) .
There?ˉs also an affiliated antique shop upstairs.
Reserve at the Doll Museum for Sakris?y Rorbuer ( 76 09 21 43; www.lofoten.
ws; cabin Nkr745-1640) , a relatively authentic complex of ochre- coloured cottages hovering above the water.
You can also hire motorboats (Nkr450 to Nkr550 per day).
For self-catering, the fish shop and cafe Sj?mat , across the street from the Doll Museum, is famous for its fish cakes, salmon burgers, smoked salmon, prawns, whale steaks and ¨C go on, be adventurous ¨C seagulls?ˉ eggs.
HAMN?Y Hamn?y Mat og Vinbu FISH RESTAURANT ( 76 09 21 45; mains Nkr175-225; May-early Sep) This welcoming restaurant is run by three generations of the same family (the teenage boys are co- opted for washing-up duties).
It?ˉs well regarded for local specialities, including whale, bacalao and cod tongues.
Grandmother takes care of the traditional dishes ¨C just try her fish cakes ¨C while her son is the main chef.
Its fish is of the freshest, bought daily from the harbour barely 100m away.
Southern Islands This remote pair of islands is superb for birdwatching.
V?r?y, mainly high and rugged, and R?st, flat as a pancake, both offer good walking and relative solitude in well-touristed Lofoten.
FISHY MEDICINE Remember the breakfast tantrums, the spoon being forced into your mouth and that strong fishy flavour overcoming the nutty taste of cornflakes, as your parents forced the fluid down your throat to stave off winter colds? It wasn?ˉt always so.
Tran, cod-liver oil, was originally used as fuel for lamps or in the tanning process for skins and nobody would have dreamed of imbibing it.
But gradually its medicinal properties were understood and, in an early example of deliberate ¨C and highly successful ¨C marketing, cod- liver oil became the preventative of choice throughout Europe.
It?ˉs a bit like olive oil; the first pressing, the virgin oil, is considered the purest while steam cooking ¨C a technological advance that reduced production costs and enhanced yield ¨C enables much more of the oil to be used.
Early hunch is nowadays backed up by objective medical evidence.
Cod- liver oil, rich in vitamins A and D, plus omega-3 fatty acids, is good for your heart and blood circulation, eyesight, skin, bone development and brain.
So take a breath, pinch your nostrils, join one in three of all Norwegians and take your medicine like a man/woman?- V?R?Y POP 550gy V?r?y, its handful of residents hugely outnumbered by over 100,000 nesting sea birds ¨C fulmars, gannets, Arctic terns, guillemots, gulls, sea eagles, puffins, kittiwakes, cormorants, eiders, petrels and a host of others ¨C is a mere 8km long with white-sand beaches, soaring ridges, tiny, isolated villages, granite- gneiss bird cliffs and sparkling seas.
The tourist office ( 75 42 06 00; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri mid-Jun¨Cmid- Aug) is in the town hall at S?rland, the main village.
Sights & Activities Walking routes approach some of the major sea-bird rookeries .
The most scenic and popular trail begins at the end of the road around the north of the island, about 6km from S?rland and 300m beyond the former airstrip.
It heads southward along the west coast, over the Eidet isthmus to the mostly abandoned fishing village of M?stad , on the east coast, where meat and eggs from the puffin colonies once supported 150 people.
Fit hikers who relish a challenge may also want to attempt the steep climb from M?stad to the peak of M?hornet (431m), which takes about an hour each way.
Alternatively, from the quay at S?rland you can follow the road (or perhaps the more interesting ridge scramble) up to the NATO installation at H?en (438m).
Sleeping Gamle Presteg?rd GUES
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